My Egypt part 2

Cairo

The morning greeted us with a rich and exquisite buffet. We worked our way through from right to left, and left to right; from small chicken sausages to falafels, scrambled eggs to beautiful fluffy challah bread. Everything was piled up as artwork, almost too nice to eat. With our stomach stuffed like a Christmas goose, we met Mimmo in the luxurious lobby. We left the great entrance to step into our black limousine, when we both stopped and stood in awe. In the near distance, through a hazy sky our eyes perceived the impressive great pyramids. We had not been able to see them last night when we arrived, for it had been dark, but now, they were right there, in front of us. 

Our chauffeur drove us to the British Museum for our very first sightseeing tour. He skillfully wove his way through the intense traffic, getting us safely to the front of the building. Many other tourists piled in front of the famous building, getting their pictures taken or waiting to go inside. I couldn’t believe that we were one of those tourists anticipating to see and touch history.

Mimmo pushed us through the immense thickness of people, guiding us through the building. Close to the entrance we stopped and admired the Narmer Palette. This special piece was my first big homework assignment while studying Egyptology; having to write about the history of the Scorpion King. Impressive! Illustrated scenes show the victory of a King whose name – the hieroglyphic signs of the Catfish and the chisel – is presented within a rectangular, ribbed frame known as a SEREKH. The serekh motif, often shown with a falcon, the god Horus, perched on top, was used to highlight Egypt’s earliest royal names. During the Old Kingdom, the Serekh would be replaced by a cartouche, an oval loop drawn around the King’s name.

We continued on; there was so much to see, yet it felt like we were rushed from one room to the next. We stopped here and there to take a quick picture, or touching the ancient granite stones while a cat walked between the granite sarcophagus, looking at me mysteriously.

We follow the stairs to the upper rooms which led to the special rooms of the boy king Tutankhamun. My legs tremble as we are drawn into the luxurious and exuberant presence of gold. All his belongings were neatly stacked away under glass. I have no words to describe this incredible moment. The gold, the artwork, and jewellery are indescribable. In front of the rooms were the great four wooden boxes which once beheld the sarcophagus. Each one bigger than the last, like the wooden Russian dolls, where one fits into the other.

We had to tear ourselves away from the golden room. Of course, we wanted to see as much as possible in the little time we had in the precious British Museum. We entered the mummy room and were thrilled to see the remains of Seqenenra Tao. My heart jumped with excitement. It was like meeting an old friend. After reading the trilogy “The Lords of the Two Lands” by Wilbur Smith, a historical fiction based on facts, I felt a special connection to this mummy. Seqenenra was the first royal prince (who should have been king by his birth right) who, no longer wanted to live under the oppression of the Hyksos. His rebellious act caused him to receive a severe head injury, which one can clearly see on the mummy. His sons Kamose and Ahmose finally succeeded and ruled over all of Egypt, uniting Upper and Lower Egypt.

My husband and I rushed through the remaining large chambers, when too soon we found ourselves by the exit. We turned around once more, sad and overwhelmed to have to leave already.

On our drive to the pyramids, the guide stopped in front of a hotel. We were led into a side room where we were greeted by a tall, thin man. The room was filled with small glass jars and vials, each one slightly differently shaped and coloured then its neighbor. We were seated on comfortable plush chairs while the Ethiopian gave us several samples of Egyptian essential oils to smell. We bought four little jars of different oils, one being the scent of papyrus. 

Now we were finally on our way to the great pyramids. While driving, one can catch a glimpse of the pyramids through palm trees and cluttered buildings. But to actually see them from up close was breathtakingly beautiful. We walked closer and closer until finally we were face to face with the ancient stones. Tourists are allowed to climb up the first few rows of stone, but no further in order to protect the old stones. Both Andreas and I climbed up the first few rows, while Mimmo was busy taking pictures of us.

Our driver caught up with us and drove us up the hill just behind the pyramids. Here we met our camel guide. I greeted Humphry, my gorgeous camel and climbed aboard. We took a long ride to the special spot; from here all pyramids beautifully lined up. We stood there for a few minutes, taking it all in, enjoying this majestic view. Just beyond the pyramids a hazy Cairo lay slightly below.

Our camels brought us back safely, where we took our car again to see the great Sphinx. She seemed to get swallowed up into the big hole where she sits. This reminded me of the story my professor told us in the beginning of my first year of Egyptology.

Inscriptions on a pink granite slab between the Great Sphinx’s paws tell us a story of how the great statue was saved from the sands of time.

Prince Thutmose, son of Amenhotep II, had been hunting in the desert. Becoming very tired, he fell asleep in the shadow of the sphinx. It was buried so deep within the sand that one could not see it. While sleeping, the young prince had a dream. The statue, calling itself Harmakhet, complained about its state of disarray and made a deal with the boy. It would help him become pharaoh if he cleared away the sand from the statue and restored it. Now, Prince Thutmose was not in direct line to the throne, but nevertheless, he began clearing away the sand with his helpers, revealing the great Sphinx. He had it painted and mended, and the Sphinx was true to its word. Years later, the young prince became Pharaoh.

We smile one last time at the Great Sphinx, and get back to our limousine, which takes us to another quick stop – watching how papyrus is made. We take it in half-heartedly, our bodies not adjusted to the Egyptian time and climate. 

Mimmo takes us to a small restaurant close to the pyramids. He orders supper for us and we just sit and gaze out the huge window from where one has an impressive view of all the pyramids. We enjoy watching everyone coming down the hill, hurrying actually, before the gates are locked. No one without special permission is allowed on the pyramid grounds at night.

After supper we are brought back to the hotel, for a short rest. We are booked in to see the light show by the Pyramids. I also have arranged to meet my friend Rou, an Egyptology classmate and study partner of mine. Turned out she’s late. It took her three hours to make it to our hotel, and she arrives just shortly before we leave for the light show. Without hesitation, Rou and her sister come along. It was impressive and amazing seeing the light show, but my eyelids were too heavy, and I lost the fight several times at the show. 

Afterwards, Rou and her sister accompany us to the hotel lounge and we enjoy our short and sweet visit. I regret feeling so tired. We hug and wish each other well. I sure enjoyed the latest gossip, how she recently secretly married Egypt’s top musician and singer, keeping their marriage hidden for now. What a crazy and romantic love story. 

Andreas and I fall into bed totally exhausted, our brains on overload. This was only the first day in Egypt.